擁有著"壽司之神"、無數(shù)甜品和全世界最多米其林餐廳的日本無疑是全球眾多食客打卡必去地之一。那么，日本料理又是如何遠(yuǎn)傳海外的呢？
1980年，《日本料理：極簡餐飲藝術(shù)》在美國出版，至今仍是西方食客了解日本料理的圣經(jīng)，讓日本餐飲聲名鵲起。
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Of all the culinary changes that have taken hold in the UK in the past 20 years, the adoption of Japanese food has been the most unexpected.
過去20年里，在英國生根發(fā)芽的所有外來餐飲，就數(shù)日式餐飲的“英國化”最為出乎預(yù)料。
Perhaps the trend started in 1992 with Alan Yau’s Wagamama, where British diners were introduced to slurping noodles from a bowl. Or was it in 1994, when Moshi Moshi established sushi conveyor belts？ Maybe it was in about 2000, when supermarkets began selling prepacked sushi as the new sandwich.
也許，是始于丘德威(Alan Yau)在英國開設(shè)日式拉面道(Wagamama)的1992年(教會英國食客咕嚕咕嚕吃碗面)？或者是始于Moshi Moshi在英國開設(shè)壽司連鎖店的1994年？抑或說，是始于超市把包裝好壽司當(dāng)作新式三明治售賣的2000年？
① slurp [sl??p] v. 出聲地吃或喝;嘖嘖地響
例句：The ideal nowcast would slurp up data on payroll, invoices and payments received in real time from every business in the country. 理想的短時預(yù)測將需要美國所有企業(yè)提供工資單、發(fā)票和付款方面的實時數(shù)據(jù)。
Screenshot: FTC
But while all of these played a part in transforming sushi and noodles from niche to known, few in the UK have eaten anything other than popular adaptations of one or two Japanese dishes. There is little awareness of the rich traditions and specialised techniques of Japanese cuisine.
雖說它們把壽司與拉面從小眾餐飲變得家喻戶曉，但除了吃過一、二種“改良版”的日式餐外，吃過正宗日本餐的英國人卻是鳳毛麟角。英國人對日本飲食的悠久傳統(tǒng)與特色烹制手法知之甚少。
For this, the ultimate source is a 500-page hardback book, Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art, by Shizuo Tsuji.
辻靜雄(Shizuo Tsuji)所著洋洋500頁的精裝書——《日本料理：極簡餐飲藝術(shù)》(Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art)就是了解日本料理的*入門書。
② niche [ni??] n. 壁龕;舒適或稱心的工作(或生活等);(產(chǎn)品的)商機(jī);市場定位;生態(tài)位
例句：The Congressional Budget Office released a report in 2007 into long-term joblessness, which was at the time something of a niche topic. 國會預(yù)算辦公室在2007年發(fā)布了一份長期失業(yè)報告，當(dāng)時這還是個有些小眾的話題。
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Published in 1980 in the US, the book laid bare“the secrets of the simple yet complex art of Japanese cooking” for “the first time”. Nearly 40 years after publication, it is still widely regarded as the definitive guide for western readers.
該書于1980年在美國出版，“首次”娓娓講述了“日本料理簡約而不簡單的餐飲藝術(shù)秘訣”。出版近40年后，它仍是廣大西方讀者了解日本料理的權(quán)威讀本。
③ lay bare 揭示;表露
例句：The gradual withdrawing of state support, experts fear, could lay bare hitherto concealed flaws in the east German economy. 專家擔(dān)心，逐步撤消*支持，可能暴露出東德經(jīng)濟(jì)迄今一直隱藏著的缺陷。
Screenshot: amazon.co.uk
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Its author, Tsuji, was born in 1933, the son of a baker. Described by food writer Paul Levy as the “chief foodie of Japan”, Tsuji had a degree in French literature and worked as a journalist before training as a cook in Japan and France.
該書作者辻靜雄出生于1933年，其父是位面包師。被美食作家保羅?列維(Paul Levy)譽(yù)為“日本首席美食家”的他擁有法國文學(xué)學(xué)位。轉(zhuǎn)行當(dāng)廚師前，曾在日本與法國當(dāng)記者。
In 1960 he returned home and took over his father-in-law’s domestic cookery school in Osaka. Under his direction, the “Ecole Technique H?telière Tsuji” taught Japanese, French and Chinese hautecuisine to generations of would-be chefs. By 1983 the school had 150 teachers, and when Tsuji died in 1993 there were 4,500 students and 17 sites, including two in France.
1960年，回到日本的他接管了岳父在大阪的烹飪學(xué)校。在他的管理下，辻靜雄酒店管理學(xué)校(Ecole Technique H?telière Tsuji)向幾代廚藝生傳授日式、法式以及中式高級烹飪術(shù)。截止1983年，學(xué)校已擁有150名教師;到1993年辻靜雄去世時，學(xué)生數(shù)已達(dá)4500人，并開設(shè)了17家分校，其中2家在法國。
④ foodie ['fu?d?] n. 美食家;吃貨
例句：It is intimidating to eat with such an obvious foodie. 與這樣一位顯然是美食家的人一起吃飯，有些令人膽怯。
⑤ haute [??t] adj. 高級的;昂貴的
例句：Fashionable academics teach that science is but a collection of socially conditioned opinions, as changeable as haute couture. 時髦的學(xué)術(shù)組織認(rèn)為科學(xué)只不過是一些一定社會條件下的觀點，就像高級時裝一樣，說變就變。
⑥ would-be ['wudbi:] adj. 想要成為...的
例句：The second hurdle for a would-be lawyer is the bar exam itself. 對于想成為律師的人來說，第二個障礙就是司法考試本身。
Screenshot: tsuji.ac.jp
Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art is a substantial cookery book — there are 220 recipes — but it is also a love letter to Japanese food and culture.
《日本料理：極簡餐飲藝術(shù)》是內(nèi)容詳實的食譜(共有220道烹飪配方)，但它也是謳歌日本餐飲文化的力作。
According to Tsuji, the national cuisine was born ofausterity, at a time when “impoverished but cultivated court nobles learnt to delight in the offerings of each changing season”. As a result, seasonality, “the pristine freshness of materials” and “the beauty of presentation” remain the core principles.
辻靜雄說，日式烹飪誕生于經(jīng)濟(jì)緊縮時代，當(dāng)時“生活拮據(jù)但富有教養(yǎng)的宮廷貴族怡然自得于各個時令季的‘自然饋贈’”。因此，講究時令(注重“食材原生態(tài)新鮮”以及“菜品視覺享受”)仍是日本餐飲的核心原則。
Tsuji assures the reader that making Japanese food “is rather like playing the piano”. As long as the rules are followed, exercises completed and fingering is correct, “you can put a little rubatointo your Chopin, varying the tempo to suit your own artistic inclination”.
辻靜雄告訴讀者：制作日式美食“酷似彈奏鋼琴”。遵循規(guī)則，加之勤學(xué)苦練與方法得當(dāng)，“就能彈奏出自己理解的肖邦(Chopin)——適度改變節(jié)奏節(jié)拍以適應(yīng)自己的藝術(shù)傾向”。
⑦ austerity [?'ster?t?] n. 樸素;(經(jīng)濟(jì))緊縮;苦行
例句：Given taxes cannot be raised enough, America has no choice but to enter our own age of austerity, via long-term spending reductions. 既然沒法實現(xiàn)幅度充分的增稅，美國除了步入緊縮時代以外，別無辦法，也就是說只能通過長期削減開支。
⑧ impoverished [?m'p?v?r??t] adj. 赤貧的;貧乏的
例句：Years of war and mismanagement have left Congo one of Africa's most impoverished countries, in spite of its mineral wealth. 盡管剛果擁有豐富的礦藏，但多年的戰(zhàn)亂與管理不善，使其淪落為非洲最貧窮的*之一。
⑨ pristine ['pr?sti?n] adj. 嶄新的;未開發(fā)的;原始的
例句：Three-quarters of a million tourists flock to the pristine, white beaches every year - but this booming industry has come at a price. 每年，全球有75萬名游客來到純凈的馬爾代夫海灘，但繁榮的旅游業(yè)也讓當(dāng)?shù)馗冻隽舜鷥r。
⑩ rubato [r?'bɑ?t??] adj. 隨意增減拍子的 n. 節(jié)奏自由的演奏風(fēng)格;彈性速度
例句：What these people cannot grasp is that in tempo rubato in an Adagio, the left hand should go on playing in strict time. 這些人無法領(lǐng)會的是，慢板樂章中的彈性速度，左手得按拍子嚴(yán)格行進(jìn)。
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The main body of Japanese Cooking comprises two sections — the first introduces the key concepts of Japanese dining and basic methods of food preparation, while the second is a collection of recipes.
《日本料理：極簡餐飲藝術(shù)》主要內(nèi)容分為兩部分——*部分介紹了日式餐飲的核心理念以及基本烹飪方法;第二部分則是各種配方薈萃。
There are 16 pages of colour plates. Aware that ingredients might be hard to find in 1980s America, the book includes an appendix of “Oriental Food Shops and Sources”. New Yorkers had 37 shops to choose from, while the residents of South Dakota had just one.
全書共有16頁彩色插圖。辻靜雄意識到有些食材在上世紀(jì)80年代的美國可能難以買到，因此該書在書后附了“東方食材店”(Oriental Food Shops and Sources)名錄。紐約本地人可去當(dāng)城的37家東方食材店購買，而南達(dá)科他州的居民則只有一家東方食材店。
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In Japan, explains Tsjui, “the whole meal is a symphony of carefully orchestrated flavour, colour, texture and seasonal appropriateness”. Chapter titles include “Ingredients”, “Utensils”, “Selecting and Cutting Fish”, “Grilling” and “Steaming”.
辻靜雄解釋道：“日本菜講究色香味與時令食材的精妙編配”。全書包括了“食材”、“器具”、“選切魚”、“烤”以及“蒸”等章節(jié)。
? orchestrate ['??k?stre?t] vt. 精心安排;編配(或創(chuàng)作)管弦樂曲;策劃;密謀
例句：The company is in the throes of a state-orchestrated merger to create the country's biggest player. 該公司正在*的鼓勵下進(jìn)行并購，以期組建**的鋼鐵公司。
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Detailed, precise and thorough, Japanese Cookingis as much reference book as cookery book. Unfamiliar ingredients such as agar-agar, kinome (young leaves of prickly ash used as an aromatic garnish) and trefoil (a member of the parsley family) are described; four pages are dedicated to unravelling the qualities of bean curd (tofu), 31 pages to techniques and recipes for yakimono (grilling and pan frying), and 10 pages to nimono (simmering).
《日本料理：極簡餐飲藝術(shù)》內(nèi)容詳盡、精準(zhǔn)以及全面，它既是烹飪指南，也是*參考書。瓊脂、kinome(作為增香裝飾用的花椒嫩葉)以及三葉草(屬歐芹科)等不為人所知的食材在書中都有詳細(xì)介紹，書中有4頁專講如何辨明豆腐質(zhì)量高低，31頁專講烤魚的秘訣，還有10頁則專講海鮮雜燴燉法。
? simmer ['s?m?] v. 煨;用文火燉;內(nèi)心充滿;即將爆發(fā) n. 即將沸騰狀態(tài);燉;小火煨
例句：There seems to be a lack of consensus in the Kremlin about how to counter simmering instability in its outlying regions. 對于如何對付邊遠(yuǎn)地區(qū)日益升溫的不穩(wěn)定狀態(tài)，克里姆林宮似乎缺乏共識。
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There are some usual suspects — yakitori and tempura, for example — but the vast majority of recipes seldom feature in the Japanese westernrepertoire. More’s the pity: butter-fried clams, sake-steamed abalone, grilled mushrooms with ponzu sauce and crushed burdock with sesame dressing sound mouth-watering. This food requires time, care and patience to execute.
但讀者仍會存有疑惑——如烤雞串與天麩羅(tempura)——但絕大多數(shù)配方?jīng)]有成為西方日式餐飲的特色菜。黃油炸蛤蚌、清酒蒸鮑魚、醬炸蘑菇以及芝麻醬牛蒡這些垂涎欲滴的日本菜未列入菜單則更是西方食客的憾事。這些美食做起來費工費時又費神。
Take steam-simmered octopus (tako yawaraka-ni), which calls for the octopus to be tenderised by rubbing it with grated radish, steaming it in stock and resting it for eight hours.
就拿清蒸章魚(tako yawaraka-ni)來說吧，要使章魚肉質(zhì)嫩，就得用碎蘿卜擦磨、現(xiàn)蒸后再涼置上8小時。
? repertoire ['rep?twɑ?] n.(總稱某人的)可表演項目;(某人的)全部才能
例句：Fishing and hunting are not part of his typical repertoire. 釣魚和打獵并不是他的拿手項目。
? mouth-watering ['mauθ'w?:t?ri?] adj. 令人垂涎的
例句：Mixing together a little food and a lot of talent is the perfect recipe for some mouth-watering inspiration. 一點點食物再加上豐富的才華就是讓您饞涎欲滴的完美秘訣。
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Tsuji wrote Japanese Cooking to preserve, share and celebrate the richness of his national cuisine. Since its publication, a number of things have changed. The popularity of Japanese food is now well established — in the UK sashimi is no longer regarded as “almost bordering on the barbaric” — and according to market research, one in five adults now enjoys eating Japanese food.
辻靜雄著書的目的是保存、共享以及謳歌日本傳統(tǒng)烹飪的博大精深。該書出版后，日本餐飲今非昔比。日本飲食的*度如今已是聲名鵲起——在英國，生魚片不再被視作“近乎蠻夷之食”——據(jù)市場調(diào)研，五分之一的英國成年人喜食日式餐。
In 2013 the cuisine was added to Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Nevertheless, Tsuji’s culinary bible is a sobering reminder of how little the west still knows about Japanese food — and a tempting invitation to change this.
2013年，日本料理被列入聯(lián)合國非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)名錄(Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list)。然而，辻靜雄的餐飲大作也清醒提醒著世人：西方對日式飲食知之者仍是寥寥無幾——它更是發(fā)出一份改變上述趨勢的“誘人請柬”。
? border on 接近;接壤
例句：For Renren, even if it has lost its post-IPO gains, those multiples border on the fantastic. 對于人人網(wǎng)而言，即使它喪失了IPO之后的漲幅，其估值水平仍然高得近乎神奇。
? sobering ['s??b?r??] adj. 令人警醒的;使人冷靜的
例句："They have had a somewhat sobering experience of trying to do that," he said. 他說：“他們在此方面已有了一次經(jīng)歷，從某種程度上說，這次經(jīng)歷發(fā)人深省?！?/p>
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*，小F奉上小小一份日本料理相關(guān)詞匯總結(jié)(部分為羅馬音)~
烤物 Broiled Dish
煮物 Stewed Dish
炸物 Fried Dish
鍋物 Nabe
醋拌物 Vinegarish Dish
卷物 Roll Sushi
清湯 Clear Soup
味增湯 Miso Soup
壽司 Sushi
生魚片 Sashimi
拉面 Ramen
天婦羅 Tempura
串燒 Yakitori
烏冬面 & 蕎麥面 Udon & Soba
蓋飯 Donburi
飯團(tuán) Onigiri
清酒 Sake
煮什錦蔬菜 Stewed Assorted Seasonal Vegetables
鹽烤秋刀魚 Grilled Sanma with Salt
蒸雞蛋羹 Steamed Egg Custard
鰻魚飯 Grilled Eel over Rice
肉豆腐 Simmered Tofu & Beef
鱈魚籽拌墨魚 Cuttlefish with Codfish Roe
天婦羅蓋飯 Tempura Selection on Rice
豚骨拉面 Pork Bone Ramen
加州手卷 California Roll
